father of modern surfing.

Don’t talk – keep it in your heart.

Just take your time – wave comes. Let the other guys go, catch another one.

Every day of the year where the water is 76, day and night, and the waves roll high, I take my sled, without runners, and coast down the face of the big waves that roll...

I have never coasted down a hill of frozen rain.

I have never seen snow and do not know what winter means.

Out of the water, I am nothing.